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4 speed new process overdrive manual transmission

4 speed new process overdrive manual transmission

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4 speed new process overdrive manual transmissionFor all intents and purposes, the transmission designations NP833 and NP440 can be used interchangeably, although records suggest that General Motors marketed the transmission (RPO code MY6 in GM pickup applications) as the NP440 in an effort to avoid confusion with Chrysler's New Process A-833, which was used extensively in Mopar applications beginning in 1963. Although the transmission platforms are similar in nature, this article focuses on the NP440 used by GM in 6.2L diesel applications. The result was a gearbox that favored fuel efficiency but lacked the performance characteristics of transmissions such as the Muncie SM465, also available in 6.2 diesel applications. Because of the transmission's 'uniqueness', it is somewhat rare. The NP440 features identical input and output splines to that of the Muncie SM465, characteristic of the fact that the transmissions were used in identical applications. T18, T19 4 speeds, ZF5 and ZF6 speed manual transmissions Ford Cars, Pickups and RVs The above four-unit designations are actually for a three-speed with overdrive unit IDENTIFICATION - Cast iron case or aluminum side-loaded case, all forward speeds synchronized Dagenham 4-speed A Toploader transmission is a manually shifted three and four speed gearbox introduced in 1963 by the Ford Motor Company to replace the BorgWarner T-10. So it's just a practical 3 speed with a 1.00:1 tallest gear. First Gear - 6.55:1 Second Gear - 3.58:1 Third Gear - 1.70:1 Fourth Gear - 1.00:1 Reverse - 6.09:1 Have any of you done the swap, how difficult is it. Can I use my old bellhousing.Available through '87 (at least, also available in 4wd Blazer) as RPO MY6 (New Process A 833), it is smooth shifting (uses auto trans fluid) and durable. Factory Hurst shifter. Works perfectly with a 3.73 rear axle and P235 tires. I have 213,000 miles on mine. etc KMost are Mopar bolt pattern and will not fit into GM belhoousings. The front bearing retainer is too big for most GM bells.

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Shfter is unique and hard to come by, Mopar truck shifters will work if modded. 2wd and 4wd, 4wd output shafts are a different length. That's a starter.But I wonder if it would stand up being behind a 454. I prefer a manual to auto but a TH400 is hard to beat strength wise. It's not a strong trans for torque motors. Keith tows with his because he knows how to shift one and his 4.3 is a good match. I would like to try one behind my 250. I've got a 2wd hydro clutch and a 4wd mech clutch, and keep thinking my 77 with its 250 and 3OTT could use some love. Then again, with my knees, I might just swap in an auto trans.He loved it. I remember him towing his 66 427 Chevelle to the track with it. I was a little tike. I think he sold it with 125,000 on it, no clutch rebuild either. Hard to find, from what I have seen here on the net.He loved it. I remember him towing his 66 427 Chevelle to the track with it. Hard to find, from what I have seen here on the net. It's not a strong trans for torque motors. The way I drive, I'd most likely kill that trans in a few days.The way I drive, I'd most likely kill that trans in a few days. The trans almost has the larger front bearing to utilize the same bellhousing, presumably a cost savings move by GM.But they were a good 4 speed in the day.I was exceedingly easy on the 2nd M20 rebuild but torque to the wheels is torque to the wheels and sometimes they just can't handle it.They even made a super strong version for the Hemi cars. The version we are talking about, they flipped the gear clusters to give an overdrive, resulting in a super low 1st gear. Most of them are aluminuim, not cast iron cases (it appears the 4wd version may be cast iron), and will flex under heavy load, causing the shfts to go out of alignment. The revised shafts are much weaker than the original version. One of the shift levers is flpped to make this work. GM offered them behind 4.3's and 305's, plus the 6.2 diesel which was desinged to match the 305 in power. They are not a high torque drag race capable trans like the original A-833.So there is a lot to talk about here, and this swap may not happen until Spring but I just wanted to share, and start asking some questions. Pic 1 - how it was listed on Craigslist Pic 2 - we found the missing bellhousing under an old tarp in front of the passenger seat Pic 3 - the loot in the trunk of my carAgain remember this guy does not have the original truck this came out of, so we were unable to take a look see on how this was originally set up, but he swears the bellhousing is original to this transmission and he bought them as a set. So could some of you more experienced folks comment on weather these transmission came with either a mechanical Z-bar like clutch linkage and or a hydraulic clutch or this mechanical setup is just not going to work for me? The early ones, particularly 4wd, seem to be mechanical. For most of these the pattern on the bellhousing is unique to this trans, although there are some that apparently have the Chevy pattern. To check you have the correct bell, line up hte pattern. Then check if the front bearing retainer just slides into the bell. This is critical to the alignment of the trans. I see you got the shifter, that's the other critical part.I don't know much about the 80 and up trucks, mine is a '74 so I mostly dwell in the 1973-1979 arena, and still believe they should have split the 73-87 trucks into two Generations, Gen 3 should be 1973-1979 and Gen 4 should have been 1980-1987 but lets not start WWWIII over this, ha ha once again I thank you for your feedbackThe MY6 is the 2WD unit you just bought. It's pretty much the same aluminum case NP A833 Dodge used in the Ram trucks with a GM input shaft and output spline count. Make sure the countershaft plug seals properly and the countershaft isn't rotating in the case. And don't use gear oil in it. The shifter isn't that odd. It's an OEM side mount Hurst Competition Plus shifter. You can get them freshened up by Hurst if the shifter itself is terribly loose. If it's not loose clean it up and lube it. The Hurst plastic bushings and spring clips for the relay rods are available from Summit Jegs etc.It'll be easier to answer your questions. And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.It's an OEM side mount Hurst Competition Plus shifter. If it's not loose clean it up and lube it. Shipping transmissions across the country aint cheap. First printed in Mopar Action When surgery is required, however, it is helpful to know the patient, its problems, and which internal organs can be transplanted. Dodge’s 413 Ramcharger and Plymouth’s Super Stock are cleaning house at the nation’s drag strips. The hard-shifting, ratio-short manual is proving to be somewhat less than the hot ticket for trophy gold. Something needs to be done, and fast. They try the Warner Gear T-10 used by the Brand “C” and “F” boys, but it just can't handle the Max Wedge’s MoPower. The die is cast and plans are made for a new gearbox that will be able to take the abuse of anything the engine boys can dish out. Unfortunately, designing an all-new gearbox takes something that Chrysler is short on: time. Still, Chrysler knows better than to sell 413s with the T-10, as this would result in blown-up boxes from coast to coast. An all-new transmission, designated the A-833, is available in everything from 6-cylinder Valiants to rip-snortin’ Max Wedges. Equipped with a standard Hurst-Campbell “Competition-Plus” shifter and four fully synchronized forward speeds, it is built in Chrysler’s Syracuse (New York) New Process Gear plant. Even in 1989, it was the largest, strongest, and heaviest four-gear passenger car transmission ever built in America. Initially there were three main version-to-version differences: extension housing and mains haft length, low-gear ratio and rear-flange size. The A-car box, while every bit as strong as its larger cousin, carries a 3.DZKGJJY.COM/images/4-speed-manual-transmission.pdf09-to-1 low gear, to launch small cars with even smaller mills. First (and worst), the Hurst shifter was eliminated, replaced by a hollow-shaft Inland unit. Enthusiasts generally agree that this was a giant step backward, but Joe Average liked the reverse lockout feature. Second, the ball-and-trunnion front U-joint flange was gone, replaced by a more typical sliding-spline yoke arrangement. Also, except for the very early production cars, the 8-cylinder A-bodies came with the B-car’s 2.66 first-gear ratio. Hemi cars also had a new, larger main drive pinion (input shaft), with a larger (No. 308) bearing and retainer, and a new coarse-spline clutch disc. A unique, beefier clutch release bearing completed the package. Luckily, these upgraded synchros can be retrofitted into the earlier transmissions. (This basic synchro design has survived right up through 1989!) Gearjammers coast to coast were dismayed to find that the new Road Runner muscle car was stuck with the same lousy Inland shifter. Soon, though, Chrysler seemed to have had it “up to here” with the complaints, because shortly after the introduction, the Hurst shifter reappeared across the board, now dressed up with a new simulated-walnut shift knob. Then the outrageous “pistol grip” shifter was released; this has become a much-sought-after restoration item. It consisted of a beefy, flat chrome stick with two woodgrain grips attached to each side and a shift-pattern logo cap on top. Cars equipped with this shifter also enjoyed a new set of transmission levers, punched with an extra set of holes for those who want extra-short-throw shifting. New sheet-steel interlock levers replace the old pin-and-balls type. The setup required new internal shift forks, which were now made of cast steel instead of brass. The entire side cover setups can be interchanged either way, which is useful, since the ’70-down type is generally regarded as better for drag racing and serious abuse. The slant six would easily outlast the overdrive gear set. I rebuilt a few of them, changing the gears that wore out, to make them stop jumping out of 4th gear. Perhaps lubricants were not up to the task of lubing a gear set that drives continually for over 100,000 miles; or maybe the metallurgy was not up to the task.” A few had been made for the ’65 drag Hemis, but they were, for all practical purposes, nonexistent. Is that bad? Not really. Can you improve upon perfection? A simple flip of the gear lever on the side cover gives the driver the illusion of three normal speeds and a fourth that is overdrive. After the 1975 run, Chrysler switched to a finer-pitched gear tooth design to reduce the noise of the 1975 models, and changed the overdrive from 0.73:1 to 0.71:1. It used a steel housing except on the Feather Duster and Dart Lite, where it had an aluminum case and extension housing. This eased servicing as the main drive pinion was now removable from the front. The case and extension were cast in aluminum; the redesigned box bushings pressed in rigidly to support the countershaft, but the overdrive unit had no such bushings. In fact, the countershaft holes were reamed oversize, allowing the countershaft to “float” (supposedly for “gear rattle suppression”). It then required a shorter countershaft and cupped plug at the front to prevent oil leakage. Except for the ’65-down cars, nearly all models used the large output-shaft spline, the exception being some late 1970s Slant Six A and F bodies. There were only two rear motor mount locations, and crossmembers were available to accommodate each. The bellhousings generally contained enough “meat” to allow remachining for either the Feather Duster or Hemi -size bearing retainer. Select a transmission that will mate with the clutch disc you'll be using, and be sure to have the correct release (throw-out) bearing to fit your box’s front bearing retainer. The mainshaft rear spline (output shaft) must also mate with your prop shaft, but, as we've said, that is generally not a problem area. We've pretty much ignored the one-off race pieces, such as the slickshift synchroless conversion and the full race “red-stripe” gearsets, to concentrate on the more readily available, mass-produced parts. All rights reserved. Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler, Ram, and Mopar are trademarks of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles. Passon’s new overdrive kit fixes the rev mismatch, adds enough strength for a Hemi, and puts you in the fast lane Steve Dulcich writer May 5, 2016 Mopar muscle car owners have been dealing with the same dilemma for decades: solving the gear ratio paradox. If you actually drive your Mopar muscle you know exactly what we are referring to. Let's face it, these cars are about acceleration, and for that you need deep rear gears. All of that is well and good, until you take things into the context of street driving in the present era. Sure, those low gears will help a classic Mopar accelerate like a Navy jet off a catapult, but at speed it's like dragging the anchor. You'll soon find yourself in the slow lane at 60 mph, still revving well over three grand, getting passed by every soccer mom in a minivan. It is really kind of humiliating. What's changed is gear ratio. It doesn't take 600 hp from a stroked big-block to run the fast lane on the interstate; relaxed cruising is all about the gearing. That minivan might have a fraction of the power of your classic Mopar, but it also has overdrive via a four-, five-, six-, or even eight-speed transmission. You really don't need eight gears when you have V-8 torque, but what matters is the trans gearing from low to top. Having the extra ratio of overdrive to bring the revs down makes all the difference on the open road. When considering manual transmission vehicles, there are many options available to Mopar enthusiasts seeking overdrive gearing, each with their pros and cons. First on the list is the factory A-833 overdrive. This unit provides a healthy overdrive ratio and bolts in as a direct replacement, but it has some real drawbacks. With the factory overdrive, you'll give up a good chunk of the A-833's legendary strength due to its floating countershaft, undercut mainshaft, and 23-spline input arrangement. In terms of gear ratio, the low 3.09:1 first, borrowed from the slant-six transmissions, creates too wide of a ratio jump from First to the 1.67:1 Second gear. That jump is a deal breaker for real performance as a 6,500-rpm shift will drop you back well below peak torque to 3,350 rpm. That shift nearly cuts engine rpm in half. Other options include add-on overdrives or conversions to non-original five- or six-speed transmissions. These conversions are great when pulled off correctly, but involve considerable modifications, are conspicuously non-original appearing, and are quite costly, making this route less than practical for many Mopar fans. Passon OD Gearset Jamie Passon of Passon Performance is a recognized expert in sales, service, and manufacturing of Mopar A-833 transmissions and components. Of the many new parts these guys manufacture is a unique overdrive gearset for the A-833. With four gears available from the A-833, Passon could see that Mopar missed the mark on the overdrive A-833's ratios. The deep six-cylinderspec, First gear ratio, and quite high overdrive ratio necessarily results in big, awkward ratio jumps between gears. The solution here was simple: take the four speeds but slice the salami up a little differently as far as ratio spreads, even up the gear splits, and tighten up the ratio range considerably between first and overdrive. The first thing that needed to go here was the 3.09:1 First gear ratio, in favor of a 2.66:1 ratio. This is basically what you would have with a factory non-overdrive muscle car version of the A-833. In First gear it is exactly like having a stock Hemi four-speed. The Passon gearset fits in any A-833 transmission case as a retrofit, and gets you an overdrive transmission with no modifications other than a change in the 3 - 4 gearshift linkage rod, which is also provided by Passon. Unlike the factory overdrive transmission, which was never designed as a high-performance piece, Passon's internals retain all of the beef of the stoutest A-833. In fact, this gearset improves on the power-handling capacity of the A-833 transmission considerably, with better materials, wider and heavier-duty gears, and a high-strength 18-spine Hemi-style input pinion shaft. Building the Passon Performance retrofit Hemi Overdrive transmission is really not different than building any factory A-833. Since the retrofit gearset will usually be installed into a used core, now is the time to freshen the remaining parts of the transmission with the needed rebuild parts. Usually, the rebuild will include a gasket and seal kit, a small parts kit, the synchronizer stop rings, rear bushing, and bearings. Other typical wear parts include the shift forks, synchronizer clutch gears and sleeves, detent balls, and it is always a good idea to replace the countershaft if any wear is showing. What needs replacement here will depend upon your individual unit, and fortunately Passon can supply anything you may need for the A-833. Our transmission was a pretty nice, used E-Body unit, so it only required the gearset and basic rebuild parts. This small-block transmission originally came with the smaller No. 307 front bearing and small 3.454-inch bellhousing register on the bearing retainer. We intend to use this transmission in a big-block application with the large 4.805-inch register. Fortunately, Passon can supply bearing retainers for virtually any combination of bearing and pilot. For our trans they supplied an 18-spine No. 307 bearing retainer with the 4.805 register, a combination never offered as OEM. As veterans of the A-833, we found the retrofit kit came together just like a stock rebuild. The Passon Hemi Overdrive kit comes with detailed step-by-step instructions that guide you through the process. See all 15 photos 1. Taking an A-833 manual transmission apart to this stage is nothing but wrenches and bolts. Remove the side cover first to clear the shift forks, then the extension and upper gear train comes out as an assembly; the front bearing retainer just unbolts. Factory overdrive transmissions require dropping the cluster gear in the case by removing the countershaft to allow the extension housing to be removed. See all 15 photos 2. The 3 - 4 synchro assembly and Third speed gear can slide right off the mainshaft once the front snap ring is removed. The mainshaft and 1 - 2 geartrain can be removed from the extension by expanding the bearing retaining ring at the front of the extension housing (308 bearing; compress retaining ring with 307 bearing). See all 15 photos 3. Once the mainshaft bearing is pressed off, the remaining First and Second speed gears and synchronizer assembly can be removed from the mainshaft. See all 15 photos 4. To remove the cluster gear, drive the countershaft rearward and out of the case using a long arbor or drift. See all 15 photos 5. On a trans with the No. 307 front bearing, the countershaft must be removed and the cluster gear dropped to the bottom of the case to allow the drive pinion assembly to be removed through the case. On No. 308 front bearing transmissions, the pinion can come out the front of the case. See all 15 photos 6. Here we have our conversion and rebuild parts from Passon. The Passon gears are made in the USA from improved materials, and feature wider gear faces for even more strength than OEM. Below is the cluster gear, with above from left to right, the First and Second speed gears, the overdrive gear, and the 18-spline pinion. See all 15 photos 9. We blasted the rust from the exterior surfaces of the fully disassembled iron castings, then cleaned the parts spotless in a caustic bath, and finished the detailing with a metal resto finish from a spray can. See all 15 photos 10. All of the components we were re-using from the core transmission were thoroughly cleaned and inspected. In preparation for assembly, we pre-assembled the synchronizers, loaded the pinion roller bearing in the rear bore, pressed on the front bearing, and loaded the cluster gear with its roller bearings, spacers, and an arbor tool to hold it all in place for installation. The arbor tool should fit the countershaft bore with a slight clearance, be long enough to hang the thrust washers at both ends, and fit between the thrust surfaces inside the case without interference. Ours was made of appropriately sized 0.125-inch wall tubing. See all 15 photos 11. Assembly of the main case began with re-installing the Reverse gear train, and then carefully lowering the cluster gear assembly to the bottom of the case (make sure the thrust washer tangs engage the slots in the case). Next the input pinion is inserted, however, the bearing retainer is left off for now. See all 15 photos 12. The extension was reassembled starting with a new rear bushing and seal. The First and Second speed gears and synchronizer assembly were installed on the mainshaft, along with a new bearing, and then the loaded shaft was dropped into the extension housing and secured with the retaining ring. This is most easily accomplished with the extension held in a vertical working position. See all 15 photos 13. The front stop ring should be secured to the synchro assembly with grease to hold it in position while the extension is mated to the case. To gain clearance for installation, slide the pinion and front (3 - 4) synchro forward, and set reverse gear to mid-position. With the gasket affixed to the extension, angle-in the extension housing assembly, engaging the roller bearings in the pinion bore. Move the front synchro back to neutral. With the extension loosely in place, clock it to expose the rear countershaft bore. Invert the trans case carefully to allow the cluster gear to mesh with the upper geartrain. Drive in the countershaft, making sure to clock it so that the woodruff key will align with the relief in the bore. Rotate the extension to its correct orientation, and bolt it down. My preference is to use grease as a sealer on both sides of the extension housing gasket. See all 15 photos 14. Once the extension is bolted up, the pinion can be secured with the bearing retainer. For protection against seepage, apply thread sealer to the bearing retainer bolts, and the front of the countershaft bore can be cleaned and knifed flush with silicone. See all 15 photos 15. The side cover and shift assembly finish the transmission. The forks must be loaded into the synchro clutch sleeves, and then the cover is lowered into place to engage them. With the brutal strength of a Hemi four-speed, pure stock looks and factory fit, and the extra-long legs of the overdrive ratio, the Passon Hemi overdrive has everything we want for our street-bound Mopar muscle car. Key Factory Torque SpecsChrysler A-833 4-Speed Editor-Curated Stories Directly to Your Inbox. SIGN UP Hot Reads 9 Reasons Dodge’s SRT Hellcat Durango Changes Everything 1928 Ford Model A Roadster '60s Drag Racer Intake Test. Through the 1950s, all makers were working on their own automatic transmission, with four more developed inside GM alone. All of GM's early automatic transmissions were replaced by variants of the Turbo-Hydramatic by the 1970s.Manually shifted on Column. ) The basic rear-wheel drive Turbo-Hydramatic spawned two front-wheel drive variants, the transverse Turbo-Hydramatic 125, and the longitudinal Turbo-Hydramatic 425. A third variant was the light-duty rear wheel drive Turbo-Hydramatic 180 used in many European models.Also manufactured and used by Holden as the Trimatic transmission. Ford led the design of the 10-speed transmission, as well as filing the design patents for said transmission. According to an official report by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) the design of the 10-speed gearbox is essentially all Ford, while GM was responsible for designing the 9-speed 9T transverse automatic gearbox. As part of their joint-venture, Ford will let GM use the 10-speed transmission with rights to modify and manufacture it for their own applications.Retrieved 2019-07-16. Retrieved 2019-07-16. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. You currently have 0 posts. 67 El CaminoIf so, too much trouble to bother adapting. I guess that's why I forgot about it. Ratios are like a NV4500 less the granny gear. Wonder why GM didn't use this for the return of the 5.7L to the Camaro for 1987. But this guy wants more than it takes to get a used T56 from a '94.5-'97 LT1 Z28, and more than the cost of strong guts for a T5.It was ok, but a lot of spread between gears. Basically a three speed with an added overdrive gear. It was fine in the truck, not sure if I would want it in a performance application.And it is an A-833On the street now!!! To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater.It got decent milage but it wasn't a performance trans. I was told it wouldn't stand up to an engine with a lot of torque.To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. I had the NP440 with the iron case from a diesel pickup in my 68 Chevelle wagon. The shifter handle was not bolted into the shifter body; it was pushed in with special rubber wedges. I drilled and bolted mine in, just like all other Hurst shifter handles. It backed up my 454 and worked great! The.71 overdrive worked fine for cruising on the highway and gave me 14 MPG with the lower rear. I figured that I could get 18 to 20 MPG on the highway if I went to a 3:08 rear, but sold the car before I could do that. Check out. The one on ebay is an aluminum cased one and way overpriced. The aluminum cased ones were made to cut down on weight and with the GM bolt pattern to bolt to any GM bellhousing but I was told when I started my search that GM had problems with them.He basicly makes 4th gear a less than 1:1 so you get OD. This man has been doing GM trannies forever and has lots of them for sale. He's always at the August swap meet in Springfield, Mo.You can buy a much better gearset from Auto Gear with a far better spread new.Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below. Note that passwords are case-sensitive. Note, you will be sent a confirmation request to this address. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose. If you still feel it is necessary to make a new reply, you can still do so though. We offer quality rebuilt manual transmission, parts and rebuild parts kits that are designed to be top of the line. After locating correct unit a link is supplied to provide detailed information on specific kit and parts that are available for your unit. Information is provided for General Motors 3 speed, 4 speed, 5 speed and 6 speeds manual transmissions. Those from 1955-68 may have electric overdrive. Some of 1964-65 units have larger gears with the same tooth count as the 1940-68 units. Fully synchronized with 30 tooth synchro rings. 1966-69 units may have electric overdrive. It has a four step cluster and all the gears are helical cut. Has case casting number T16-1X. Found in heavy duty applications. Fully synchronized with 36 tooth synchro rings. This is the only GM 3 speed with the same bearing front and rear. This transmission is found in performance applications. Fully synchronized with 36 tooth synchro rings. Same unit as Ford RAT except for a GM bolt pattern to the bell housing. Has R28-20-15 cluster gear. Found in heavy-duty applications. Casting number T10-XX or 13-04 are on passenger side of case. They all have 9-bolt side covers and 36 tooth synchro rings. Reverse shift lever is located in the extension housing, along with main shaft reverse which is a straight cut gear. Some of the early units, found mostly in Corvettes, have a front nut like the Muncie M21. 1984-88 units have overdrive. The side cover has 7 bolts and 2 shifter cams. The synchro rings have 36 teeth and the unit has a 4-step cluster gear. Reverse gears are helical cut and are located in the extension housing. The side cover has 7 bolts and 3 shifter cams. The synchro rings have 30 teeth and the unit has a 5-step cluster gear. Reverse gears are straight cut and are located in the main transmission case. Shifter assembly is attached to the top of the extension housing where the two arms meet. The main case is open at both ends, the bell housing.There is an internal single-rail shift linkage with the shifter mounted on top of the extension housing. Front and rear main bearings are ball type and the cluster gear has a shaft running through it, that is supported by loose needles. Case casting is number 13-53. Front and rear main bearings are tapered. The cluster gear is solid and is supported on each end by cylindrical roller bearings located in the case. Case castings numbers are 13-51 or 13-52. The Isuzu logo is cast into the left side of the case. Is not found in the Chevy LUV. It has a rectangular cast iron front bearing retainer and a 27 tooth rear output shaft. The front and rear countershaft bearings are both 25x62x17. Side-loaded with either aluminum or cast iron case and used in both gas and diesel applications. All of these units are 3 speeds with Overdrive.